Crochet / Crochet Patterns

Free Crochet Pattern: Ombré Floor Cushion (Part 2 of 2)

I don’t know about you all, but I spend a lot of time working on the floor. No clue why, but if there’s a coffee table, I’m sitting on the floor next to it with my laptop. If we’re watching television, I usually end up on the floor in front of the couch. My theory is it’s because I like to spread out–extra blankets, yarn, about a half-dozen WIPs always within reach–and the floor just has an endless amount of space for spreading out. So, naturally, I’m all about floor cushions, especially this super cute ombré floor cushion. Pretty to look at, comfy to sit on–perfect!

Check out Part 1 for the bottom half of the Ombré Floor Cushion, otherwise read on for Part 2. In this post, you’ll find the pattern for the top half of the cushion, as well as instructions on how to put it all together!


ombre floor cushion overview

Abbreviations:

hdcHalf Double Crochet
sl stSlip Stitch
frdcFront Raised Double Crochet
chChain
stStitch
rndRound

Notes:

  • The pattern for the top half of the floor cushion is very similar to the bottom with only a few rounds of difference. Be sure to pay careful attention to these rounds to ensure the stitch count is properly increased.
  • The top segment of the pattern will be smaller than the bottom; don’t worry too much about this, as this difference won’t even be noticeable once the piece is complete.
  • frdc (front raised double crochet):
    • yo, insert hook from the front to the back at right of the next stitch, and bring it out at left of the same stitch, then complete the double crochet in the usual way. A ridge should form on the other side of the work.

Pattern:

To make the top segment

Magic Ring, ch2 (counts as first hdc)

Rnd 1: Work 7hdc in ring, sl st to top of ch2. (8sts)

Rnd 2: Ch2 (counts as 1hdc throughout), 1hdc in same st, 2hdc in each st around, sl st to top of ch2. (16sts)

Rnd 3: Ch2, hdc in same st, *1hdc in next st **, 2hdc in next st, rep from * around ending last rep at **, sl st to top of ch2. (24 sts)

Rnd 4: Ch2, hdc in same st, *1hdc in next 2 sts **, 2hdc in next st, rep from * around ending last rep at **, sl st to top of ch2. (32 sts)

Rnd 5: Ch2, hdc in same st, *1hdc in next 3 sts **, 2hdc in next st, rep from * around ending last rep at **, sl st to top of ch2. (40sts)

Rnd 6: Ch2, hdc in same st, *1hdc in next 4 sts **, 2hdc in next st, rep from * around ending last rep at **, sl st to top of ch2. (48 sts)

Rnd 7: Ch2, hdc in same st, *1hdc in next 5 sts **, 2hdc in next st, rep from * around ending last rep at **, sl st to top of ch2. (56 sts)

Rnd 8: Ch2, hdc in same st, *1hdc in next 6 sts **, 2hdc in next st, rep from * around ending last rep at **, sl st to top of ch2. (64 sts)

Rnd 9: Ch2, hdc in same st, *1hdc in next 7 sts **, 2hdc in next st, rep from * around ending last rep at **, sl st around ch2 post. (72 sts)

Rnd 10: Ch2, frdc around same post as sl st, *1frdc around post of next 8 sts **, 2frdc around post of next st, rep from * around ending last rep at **, sl st to top of ch2. (80 sts)

Rnd 11: Ch2, hdc in same st, *1hdc in next 9 sts **, 2hdc in next st, rep from * around ending last rep at **, sl st around ch2 post. (88 sts)

Rnd 12: Ch2, frdc around same post as sl st, *1frdc around post of next 10 sts **, 2frdc around post of next st, rep from * around ending last rep at **, sl st to top of ch2. (96 sts)

The next 10 rounds will be the same as the bottom segment. For these next 10 rounds, I’ll state the spacing and the final stitch count. Be sure to work the beginnings and ends of each round the same way you did for the first 9 rounds of this pattern.

Rnd 13: *1hdc in next 11 sts, 2hdc in next st. (104 sts)

Rnd 14: *1hdc in next 12 sts, 2hdc in next st. (112 sts)

Rnd 15: *1hdc in next 13 sts, 2hdc in next st. (120 sts)

Rnd 16: *1hdc in next 14 sts, 2hdc in next st. (128 sts)

Rnd 17: *1hdc in next 15 sts, 2hdc in next st. (136 sts)

Rnd 18: *1hdc in next 16 sts, 2hdc in next st. (144 sts)

Rnd 19: *1hdc in next 17 sts, 2hdc in next st. (152 sts)

Rnd 20: *1hdc in next 18 sts, 2hdc in next st. (160 sts)

Rnd 21: *1hdc in next 19 sts, 2hdc in next st. (168 sts)

Rnd 22: *1hdc in next 20 sts, 2hdc in next st. (176 sts)

Rnd 23: Ch2, hdc in same st, *1hdc in next 21 sts **, 2hdc in next st, rep from * around ending last rep at **, sl st around ch2 post. (184 sts)

Rnd 24: Ch2, frdc around same post as sl st, *1frdc around post of next 22 sts **, 2frdc around post of next st, rep from * around ending last rep at **, sl st to top of ch2. (192 sts)

Rnd 25: Ch2, hdc in same st, *1hdc in next 23 sts **, 2hdc in next st, rep from * around ending last rep at **, sl st around ch2 post. (200 sts)

Rnd 26: Ch2, frdc around same post as sl st, *1frdc around post of next 24 sts **, 2frdc around post of next st, rep from * around ending last rep at **, sl st to top of ch2. (208 sts)

Rnd 27: *1hdc in next 25 sts, 2hdc in next st. (216 sts)

Rnd 28: *1hdc in next 26 sts, 2hdc in next st. (224 sts)

Rnd 29: *1hdc in next 27 sts, 2hdc in next st. (232 sts)

Rnd 30: *1hdc in next 28 sts, 2hdc in next st. (240 sts)

At the end of Rnd 30, sl st to the top of the ch2. Bind off.


ombre floor cushion top and bottom

Construction:

Lay the top and bottom pieces one over the other. For the top, make sure the ridges formed by the frdc rounds are facing up. Work a slip stitch seam along the edges of both segments. I would recommend working the slip stitches through four loops (2 loops on each piece) for extra stability. See the picture below for additional clarification.



Work the seam around the piece, leaving an opening just large enough to add in the cushion insert (or whichever stuffing you chose). Be sure to pinch the seam so that it doesn’t unravel during this step.


ombre floor cushion stuffing
An overstuffed look will look far better than understuffed with most cushion patterns. My cushion insert was flatter than I wanted, so I ended up doubling it for that extra poof.

Seam the rest of the way around, then cut the yarn and bind off.

To make the fringe, you can use a tassel maker (I set mine at 4.75″) or simply cut 6 pieces of yarn measuring just about 10″ long for each section of fringe. With the tassel maker, wrap around the template 6 times. Cut more 10″ pieces, or wrap around the tassel maker several more times, if you want a fuller fringe.

For each section of fringe, insert into the loops along the ridge made by the 26th round of frdc stitches. Space each section of fringe evenly around the cushion (I left 2 loops between each fringe section). See the photo below for clarification.



Work this fringe all the way around, then weave in any loose ends.


Thank you all so much for reading, and I hope you enjoy this pattern for the ombré floor cushion! If you have any questions, feel free to ask in the comments or reach out to us on social media. We’d also love to see what you make with this pattern, so be sure to tag us to show us your creations!


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